Milan Moments

I apologize for this belated recap, but here are my favorite collections from Milan. This season was dominated by pale hues and boudoir styling and fabulous frocks. Oh and lots of not-pants. What did you think of Italy's offerings?


Alberta Ferretti
Let's start with the soft, diaphonous collection sent down the runway by Alberta Ferretti. These beautiful pieces screamed (or rather whispered) spring. Chiffon is her thing, and I take no issue with that. It was all so pretty and lovely but not too sweet. Floral embroidery accented lovely Midsummer Night's Dream-style dresses and pastels ruled the show. Sometimes grounded by a sturdy colored belt. Loose long jackets, day dresses and skirt skirts were also in the mix and all felt really wearable and easy (and had a nice hint of retro appeal). An apron motif also appeared here and there, sometimes as part of the frock and other times in the form of a lattice overlay. Lace had a presence and helped to enhance the dreamy, feminine feel of the whole collection in such a perfect way.


Dolce & Gabbana
There was a hint of flamenco and matador on Dolce's catwalk this season. Something sort of tango, sort of red rose held between the teeth. Dramatic, feminine lace. Everything black, white and red, with small touches of blue. And we can't forget the classic Dolce and Gabbana large florals that popped up on blouses, bustiers and snug skirts. Tailored jackets were paired with jodphur style trousers. Masculine met feminine. Underpinnings became outerpinnings. Also represented? 80s Madonna in the form of netting, crosses and the like. So Dolce and so wonderful.


Fendi
Just. Plain. Awesome. I die. Soft colors (with a healthy dose of black, washed red and persimmon) and frayed edges. Lucite popped up on sky-high fabric heels, handbag handles and even made up minaudieres. Belts were metallic, sometimes studded, and sleeves full. Sheer blouses and dresses had soft and sexy bedroom appeal (as did the slept-in updos). Voluminous shorts looked great with full blouses as did paperbag skirts with fitted jackets. And I adored the slouchy, slinky pants. Oh my god it was all too good.


Marni
Prints, prints, prints. Polka dots, florals, stripes, all mixed and matched in true Marni form. Colors included pale pinks and peaches, various shades of green, chocolate brown, blue, gray, white...to me a very late 1960s/early 1970s palette. Socks were worn with sandals, patterned headscarves worn with all. Long shorts were well-represented as were tie belts and even beaded embellishment on blouses, dresses and coats. Totally eclectic and mismatched, but so devil-may-care and delightful.


Prada
This collection from Prada was slightly surprising; quite a departure from fall's blend of leather, velvet and somberness. Here we saw sleek steel gray, 1960s Barbie-style red lips and messy pigtails as well as riffs on babydoll nighties and surf wear. Oh and uber-beaded dresses, sandals and even lucite heels. How does that translate? Shorts teeny and long, palm tree prints, bed jackets, digital-looking florals and everything kept in shades of gray, black and white (with hints of blue, yellow and purple).


Versus
It's back. Helmed by Christopher Kane, this Versace subset was one of my favorites in the nineties - sexy, youthful and oh so colorful. This presentation showed only black, red and beige, but totally harked back to the cutouts, safety pins and sharpness of yore. And the accessories, oh my: safety pin adorned heels and supple leather bags, flat ankle boots adorned with chains and bags large and small to match. I think I can actually safely and literally say that I love each and every look, every hint of lace, every length of leg.

Photos courtesy of Style.com.